Looking after concrete pieces

Why it happens: water gets into a fine surface line, the temperature drops, the water expands, the line widens. Or the ground under the base has shifted and put pressure on the bowl. Most fixable cracks are under 2 mm wide.

The fix:

1. Drain the bowl. Clean and dry the cracked area with a brush.
2. Run a putty knife of concrete crack filler along the crack, pressing it in. Smooth flush with the surface.
3. Let it cure 24 hours before refilling with water.
4. While you're there, give the whole bowl a coat of clear pond sealer (see repair #4) — it'll stop the next one starting.

Find the leak first: drain the bowl, leave it to dry overnight, then fill it back up and watch the outside. Wherever a damp patch appears on the outside of the bowl is your leak point.

The fix:

1. Drain again and dry the leak area thoroughly — silicone won't bond to a damp surface.
2. For a single spot, apply pond-safe silicone with a caulking gun. Press it in, smooth with a wet finger.
3. For a hairline that runs across more of the bowl, brush on two coats of clear pond sealer instead — it forms a flexible membrane across the whole inside.
4. Either way, cure for 48 hours dry, then refill.

Important: never use bathroom or kitchen silicone. They contain biocides that kill fish, frogs and birds.

First, a note on pumps. Submersible pond pumps are a wear item — consumable, like a printer cartridge or a car battery. Most last 1–5 years depending on quality and use. This isn't a fault, it's how pumps work.

Before you replace, check the obvious:

1. Cable plugged in, GPO has power.
2. Water level above the pump intake (most pumps die from running dry).
3. Hose not kinked or blocked.
4. Impeller not clogged with limescale — see descale below.

Descale the impeller: unplug, lift it out, leave overnight in a bucket of 1:4 white vinegar and water. Brush gently in the morning. About a third of "dead" pumps come back to life.

If it's still dead, replace. Different pumps suit different fountains — head height, bowl volume, indoor vs outdoor, salt vs fresh. The easiest path is to give us a call — we'll match the right pump to your piece and order it in. We don't keep stock (we'd rather get you the right one than push what's on the shelf), but most pumps arrive within a few days. If you'd rather DIY, see below.

The single biggest thing you can do to extend the life of a concrete piece. Sealing slows water absorption (so freeze-thaw can't crack it), keeps lime from leaching back out, and stops moss taking hold in shaded spots.

The how:

1. Drain and dry the piece. Give it a sunny week off — sealer doesn't bond to damp concrete.
2. Brush the whole surface clean with a soft brush. No detergents.
3. Apply two thin coats of water-based clear concrete sealer, 4 hours between coats. Inside and out of the bowls.
4. Cure 24 hours dry before refilling.

Done once every 2–3 years, this is the difference between a piece that lasts 10 years and one that lasts 30+. Quietly the most important thing on this page.